It sounds impossible we know, but there might just be a time when you wish to take a break from the beach.
GAY SYRAH SYRAH
Work your way slowly through the Garden Route grape-growing community.
All right we concede. On the face of it, visiting the southern Cape coast for a trip through the wine lands might sound every bit as incongruous as stopping over in Stellenbosch to see the whales. But not really. The Eden district is rapidly developing into a notable wine region in its own right and a wine-tasting meander through one or more of 16 wine farms in and around Plett will make you think of Franschoek as no more than that place where people still read books.
From the viridian-beflecked valleys of Wittedrift and moss-bedecked Crags further west, to Lodestone’s effervescent Rose and the wholesome pleasures of Kraaiboskloof’s organic reds – the more you visit, the prettier it gets. Chances are you might start your journey at Bramon – pioneer estate of the Garden Route’s nouveau-vintners’ community and largest vineyard in the southern Cape (complete with its own 65 metre waterfall and dining tables set betwixt the vines), but it’s bound to be an utterly regret-less linger.
ANIMAL HOUSES
Get a day pass to these gardens of Eden.
To interact or not to interact, that is the question looming over the collective animal sanctuary fraternity in Plett and surrounds. Monkeyland, Birds of Eden and Jukani Wildlife Sanctuary all stringently practise so-called “responsible tourism” – a creed in sync with the broader global green earth awarenesss campaign.
For tourists to Plett it in effect also means no more petting of wild animals. “How long would you last,” group-spokesperson Vijver Jonck explains, “If you had to sit at a bus stop all day and everyone passing by stopped to stroke you?”
Escalating tourist numbers to the sanctuaries are evidence the policy works and even visitors not predisposed to animals would find a visit to these isolated ecosystems around Plett fascinating. A two-hectare protective hub encapsulating a gorge of indigenous forest with 280 species of over 3000 birds, makes Birds of Eden the largest free-flight aviary on earth. Both there and at Monkeyland, it’s a bit like stepping into a set of the latest King Kong remake – but thankfully without Jack Black taking over the show.
WALKIES AND TALKIES
Do some wild walking on the side.
Slackpacking is the aptly descriptive new catch phrase for hikers who want to smell the roses instead of utilising nature as a substitute for the gym. (Why go a-walking in one of the world’s most breath-snatching natural settings, they would argue, if you don’t really take it all in?) And Plett has about as perfect an array of such trails as one can get. The Plett Trail as it is known, actually offers various options – from an all-inclusive 9-day soul-replenishing sojourn in the finest natural wonders Edendistrict has to offer, to shorter jaunts through the southern Cape Shangri-La.
But even a brief turn around Robberg – the hulking oceanic outcrop dominating Plettenberg Bay’s vista to the west – should be enough to get you through another year of city living. Especially if your eagle’s vantage point includes whales piercing the air, Great White sharks (Plett is one of the few places on earth where they are visible from the land) or a pod of dolphins gambolling in the breakers. The next time you’re in Plett and someone tells you to “take a hike”, your beaming retort could also be: “don’t mind if I do”.
WELL SADDLED WITH THE TEENS
Take in a horseback safari at Plettenberg Bay Game Reserve.
It is true that visiting a game park to see the Big 5 would probably not be a priority for most visitors from the north. But doing so for an hour or two on horseback in one of the most bracing natural settings on the continent, should be. And that’s exactly what South African city slickers could be doing if they hop into the saddle for a paltry R590 at Plettenberg Bay Game Reserve. Pre-prandial sundowners swaddled in Africanchic is optional, though recommended.
Only riders over the age of 12 and with previous experience allowed, so get in some practise before you arrive.
IT’S NOT LITTLE BRITAIN – IT ONLY TASTES LIKE IT
Grab a good ol’ pack of fish & chips at OfftheHook, “Locavores” paradise.
Even if one wanted to, you would be hard pressed to mistake anywhere in Plett for the UK. Too many happy foreigners around for one thing. There is however a moment to be had just below town centre that could trigger a fond flashback of the old country for any stray ex-pat or Anglophile.
Or anyone else who salivates at the thought of traditional fried fish and chips. We’re not talking greasy slap chips, but rather American-style French fries to set your tastebuds alight. Slap the load down for a picnic at one of Plett’s beaches, at the Whale Tail viewing point or on your own verandah with a cold one, sit back chill and try not to think of England.
THAT PECKISH FEELING
Fine diner doubles as a great bird-watchers perch.
Apparently inspired by a steamy long-distance romance, Emily Moon is much more than just a myth with a view. It’s rather a view of mythological proportions. Even the chips are a work of art in this self-styled labyrinth of ancient African and Asian artefacts.
Order a plate of local specialities such as the Karoo lamb rack or tomato and butter bredie, and gaze across to the cliffs looming over the spreading wetland below. Whip out your Robert’s under the candy-coloured parasols and see if you can spot the rare Sootie Falcon negotiate the thermals, the rufescent-green flash of the Knysna (Loerie), a Blue Crane’s royal strut or a Red-billed Teal, Three-banded Plover or some Sandpipers celebrating summer.
Further along the road towards Uniondale, raptors ride the air with African Harrier hawks, Lanner Falcons and Jackal buzzards.
THE TROPICS ON TAP
Raise a glass to the Mojito – a rousing elixir of life.
The mojito isn’t half as dangerous as it sounds. Basically a malaria-free libation, it is the Brazilian Caiperinha’s better-dressed cousin from Cuba. Equally refreshing and mischievous, the Mojito also constitutes a concoction of crushed limes, brown sugar and cane-extracted liquid (in this case rum – brewed from molasses instead of raw sugar-cane juice like the caipirinha) and nothing goes better with a gentle sea-breeze through your hair (or caressing a balding pate) than this bold beverage.
A soon to be internationally acclaimed version can be had at The Table (or possibly The Unstable if your intake stays unchecked) in the main road. Good food is also available if you even care after anadequate dosage of the heavenly nectar.
TAKE THE MILKY WAY TO PARADISE
Nibble on fresh farm cheese as the kids see where milk really comes from.
A perfect pit-stop on the postcard-pretty road that coils down into Nature’s Valley is to be found at the Nature’s Way farm stall. Described as “cheese-tasting heaven on a working dairy farm”, the small concern more than lives up to its reputation.
While the kids go off to see how the Jersey cows are milked, you can savour their local and international cheeses or stack your green-bags to the brim with the wide array of pestos, all sorts of dressings, preserves, honey, real free-range eggs and olive oil. Tours of the farm are offered on request. Then head off to Nature’s Valley – most people’s vision of paradise on earth.
A-MAZING CRAZE
Battle your way back to civilisation at Plettenberg Bay’s Puzzle Park.
If you can’t beat them, we are told, join them, so the perfect place to add to your confusion about what to do on a non-beach going day in Plett is the aptly named Puzzle Park. For a mere R155 all-inclusive package, merriment begins at the entrance to the restaurant, which serves steaming home-bakes and light meals between walls peppered with word play, riddles and other mind games you and the kids can indulge in.
The lawn outside hosts all sorts of larger-than-life physical puzzles and other favourite children’s activities to warm you up for the big games. Approach the 1600sq metres 3D maze too flippantly and you could easily exceed the average time allocated to the exercise (officially 45 minutes though many might feel that’s meant mainly for members of the GenerIQ Society).
Then simmer down with the puzzle walk through the forest filled with time-based quiz stops offering lip-chewing word, number and general knowledge challenges.
HAVE YOUR CAKE AND EAT IT
There’s more than meets the eye at The Peppermill.
On the face of it, the somewhat suggestive logo is the only indication that there’s more cooking than meets the eye at the otherwise rather nondescript looking Peppermill. There’s no sign outside but look for the entrance showing Guatemalan surfer-cafe promise and take a seat in what could be possibly described a Bavarian-Balinese interior. But the eclectic décor would be but a side-dish.
Locals stream there for Nick Donegan’s enchanting main courses, the convivial atmosphere he creates, tankards of local craft beers and primarily, mainly, getout-of-the-way-I-was-first-ly – the succulent pleasures of his chocolate cake. Voted by Cosmo magazine as the very best in South Africa, you will understand its reputation once you too sit riveted to your seat as each forkful melts in your mouth.
COCA-COLA STREAMS AND BOEREWORS MACHINES
Braai on the banks of the Keurboomsrivier.
Yes, yes a travesty in a certain sense – to seek out unsalted water so close to the sea and some of the world’s best beaches, but to smell thin plumes of smoke rising from the grills beside the tranquil Coca-Cola coloured waterway that empties into the ocean at the entrance to the Keurbooms Lagoon Caravan Park, is frankly, priceless. Well perhaps not quite. A night’s fee will set you back the cost of R140 per person in peak season.
And for that you can rig up your high tech Weber or use a free-standing braai under a spreading Keurboom-canopy and flip chops to your RV and Weber to your heart’s content. The more adventurous can venture upstream on assorted water-borne vehicles for some fishing, swimming or sipping of sundowners to the piercing aural backdrop of swooping fish eagles. Electrical plugs and taps are available at all the sites with ablution facilities always a stone’s throw away.
